Graham and Julie’s Camping Adventure The Flinders Ranges - Part 1 - Wilpena Pound

April 2024 - Finally, our first real holiday since moving to Kangaroo Island.  A camping trip in our 'new to us' caravan, affectionately known as “The Geist” (Which means free spirit, and we say it with an Arnold Schwarzenegger accent as it is European.)  When our nephew Callan and his partner Melinda heard we’d decided on the Flinders Ranges, they planned to join us. We’ve always enjoyed their company when visiting, but had no idea how much fun and laughter we would enjoy with them on this trip. 

We were starting at the Wilpena Pound Resort on Adnyamathanha Country. Wilpena Pound or Ikara (meeting place) is of cultural and spiritual significance to the Adnyamathanha people, who have lived here for 15,000 years. I’ll put in links where I can for those who want to see more about the spots we’ve visited.  Although from above it looks like a crater, it’s actually a natural amphitheatre, and was called a “pound” as the shape lent itself to naturally contain sheep and cattle (as in impound) only needing to close off one end. It’s described by geologists as a ‘remnant elevated synclinal basin’. Click here for a National Geographic article’s full description of its evolution. 

We left Adelaide around 2 pm, deciding to drive straight to The Pound, arriving around 9:30 p.m. Once in the park, we passed a few Grey Kangaroos (called Euros) which were so light in colour, I called them “Ghost Kangaroos”, as to me they appeared to glow in the dark. They had huge ears, and seemed fairly traffic savvy, as when we approached, they’d pause, then turn and hop away. 

We set up in the dark and settled in for our first night sleep in the Caravan.  Oh the serenity. 

We awoke to a glorious sunrise in a lovely campground. The facilities were nice, with lots of hot water for the showers, and a basic laundry available. The entrance to the camping area had an information centre and a well-supplied shop, with petrol and firewood available.

Callan and Melinda were due later that afternoon, so we headed out for a mini adventure. “We’ll do a reconnoitre” Graham said and took the Razorback Lookout loop. The views varied, and beautiful. Carrying on from the lookout, we came to Bunyeroo Gorge – with majestic giant gum trees, this was a place so steeped in ancient spirit, we were compelled to stop and get out of the truck for a time to absorb its energy. It radiated calm and wisdom from millions of years of existence. I felt like I was inside of a glowing Aussie outback painting, basking in the warmth of the golden light. 

Once Callan and Melinda arrived and were settled, we walked to the resort to attend the welcome to country where Ranger Ringo, who was somewhat of a stand-up comedian, kept us all chucking as he welcomed us to Adnyamathanha land, and regaled us with the local tales of creation.

We planned to be at Razorback Lookout to watch the sunrise with a thermos of coffee and cookies. 

A good idea as the early mornings were cool. It was stunning! 

We did the loop drive, stopping along the way and learned a lot from the interpretive signs. Such as Stromatolites – living stones! Did you know the first three billion years of life on earth consisted of single celled microbes? Some of which formed slimy mats and pillars on the ocean floor. These microbe colonies harnessed energy from the sun, produced oxygen, critical for the complex life that would evolve later!!  Now, they are preserved there as towers of stone.

We saw quite a variety of wildlife, and lots of it! Starting with a pair of Wedgetail Eagles gliding through the air keeping an the juvenile flying with them. I was beside myself to see so many Emus, as we passed group after group of Emu Dads ambling along with their young, as that’s their job. And goats – lots and lots of goats. They were very entertaining, but are feral and it is a struggle to keep the numbers in hand. And their smell… Yikes, we were soon able to find them, by smell before we saw them. 

And the bunnies! Also feral and extremely numerous. Fast as lightning running around the fields.  Gorgeous yellow tailed Rock Wallabies hidden in the rocks and trees delighted us, shy, but Melinda seemed to have a built in ‘critter alert’ and was soon calling out whenever she saw something. We also enjoyed the variety of birds, both exotic and domestic. From large raptors like Wedgetail Eagles, Kestrels, Quail, assorted parrots including the Australian Ring Neck, Apostle Birds to tiny birds like shy wrens and Red Robins.

Friday, we took the Wangara Hill hike, past the Hills Homestead to the lookout. 

We perched on some rocks at the top and stopped for a snack and to enjoy the view. 

And what a view it was!

Along the track we found these fellows pointing the way to the top.  

These stones were scattered around the Flinders Ranges pointing the way to various venues.

The next day, Graham and I took it easy enjoying the Boom or Bust walk, while Callan and Melinda tested themselves with an all-day hike to the saddle of St Mary Peak. The snooze after our hike was well received and refreshed us for some local explorations later.

Callan’s friend had recommended the Moralana Scenic Drive, so we piled into the truck and set off. Another great drive.  On our way back, we noticed the entrance to Mount Little Station, where our friends from KI, Mos and Liz were “Station Sitting”, so we dropped in to surprise them, and enjoy one of their delicious coffees.

Our last night at Wilpena we set off to enjoy the sunset at Stokes Hill Lookout

This image includes a bronze cast showing the crater like shape of Wilpena. 

You can see how it lends itself to containing animals.

When we returned to camp, our neighbours told us about Arkaroo Rock. A cave with ancient traditional ochre and charcoal paintings depicting the creation story of Ikara (Wilpena Pound).  As it wasn’t too far away and the walk was only a 3.5 km loop, we planned to get there and back before we had to hook up and check out at 10 am the next day. 

It was certainly worth the trip. The walk in was as beautiful as the paintings, which have been protected with a wire fence with holes large enough to get a camera lens through.  When I looked the site up on the web, it suggested the painting was done about 5,000 years ago. 

It felt good to be camping again. Sitting by the fire in the evening, with starry skies, lots of stories and laughter, and spying on possums and quolls sniffing around looking for leftovers. The quiet of the early morning, and evening stroll through the camp ground on the way to the loo, checking out other camp sites along the way. One early morning stroll, I couldn’t help but raise my eyebrows at the sight of food packaging strewn around an unsuspecting neighbour’s campsite. There was nothing left for them for breakfast after the ravens and night creatures were done.

We certainly ate well. We’d both planned 2 meals to share, and then thought we’d fend for ourselves, or eat out a couple of nights. However, we enjoyed the food we'd brought, and cooking together so much, that’s what we did. We only ate out once, the day we arrived at Arkaroola, but that’s the next story… With Hungarian goulash, perogies, burgers, curry night, fajitas, pasta, chilli and on and on, why would we eat out? Also the reason we had to keep hiking, to work it all off!

We were living the dream. Arkaroola comes next… With dark skies, and towering peaks, these are the wild mountains, going back 2 BILLION years, to the time BEFORE FOSSILS!!

With the first part of this trip completed, after many years it feels good to say again…

Phase3 The adventure continues….